Showing posts with label SHTF. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SHTF. Show all posts
Sunday, November 25, 2012
Tuesday, November 6, 2012
The wool blanket and sleeping kits
I wanted to add to other posts about camp clothing, bedding, and related items (with an eye on how that applies to GOOD or 72 hour kits).
As luck would have it I am not allergic to wool, here in the mountains I have learned long ago that no matter how good (or expensive) some yuppie products, I always return to wool.
I have tried five very expensive outer wear sets in the past, in one excessively expensive Gore-tex camouflage jacket and bib set I just about killed myself trusting to the garment to work like I needed. That experience caused me to swear off the yuppie crap and go for the traditional products, or at least products I could trust. I can always trust wool, you pay for this with weight because wool is heavy but by golly it works (even somewhat well when wet), lasts forever (care to keep the insects away) and is tough under heavy use.
I was trying to find alternatives to synthetics and down (waterfowl products) for sleeping kits as I refuse to use down after several questionable products and several unfortunate events involving water.
One underlying problem with backpacking is weight and water, you have never seen miserable until you drench your down bag with water.
Three days into rain and snow mix on an elk hunting trip and a trail of water formed into my sleeping kit from a large canvas long-term-use tent (the big horse packing style tents).
Once it is drenched down is worthless.
Now of course some would say I may lack the skills needed to keep a sleeping bag dry, and that may well be true, in the end I am a beast, hard on some equipment and take trips in the worst of weather.
I have tried down several times after my first drenching only to have similar problems, wear issues (typically down bags are inside flimsy easy to rip covers) and even one fire. So in my quest to find a sleeping kit and explore other options I started looking over the "old-west-cowboy" bed-rolls and wool sleeping kits. I have found the following you may also be interested in watching.
Several thoughts about a kit - warm, resistance to weather, long wear, then weight, I am of course thinking about hunting and prepping instances, if you are forced to grab your GOOD bag a tough option that works under crap circumstances may be the ticket. (I don't think they will give you the choice of good weather under a forced bug out.)
As luck would have it I am not allergic to wool, here in the mountains I have learned long ago that no matter how good (or expensive) some yuppie products, I always return to wool.
I have tried five very expensive outer wear sets in the past, in one excessively expensive Gore-tex camouflage jacket and bib set I just about killed myself trusting to the garment to work like I needed. That experience caused me to swear off the yuppie crap and go for the traditional products, or at least products I could trust. I can always trust wool, you pay for this with weight because wool is heavy but by golly it works (even somewhat well when wet), lasts forever (care to keep the insects away) and is tough under heavy use.
I was trying to find alternatives to synthetics and down (waterfowl products) for sleeping kits as I refuse to use down after several questionable products and several unfortunate events involving water.
One underlying problem with backpacking is weight and water, you have never seen miserable until you drench your down bag with water.
Three days into rain and snow mix on an elk hunting trip and a trail of water formed into my sleeping kit from a large canvas long-term-use tent (the big horse packing style tents).
Once it is drenched down is worthless.
Now of course some would say I may lack the skills needed to keep a sleeping bag dry, and that may well be true, in the end I am a beast, hard on some equipment and take trips in the worst of weather.
I have tried down several times after my first drenching only to have similar problems, wear issues (typically down bags are inside flimsy easy to rip covers) and even one fire. So in my quest to find a sleeping kit and explore other options I started looking over the "old-west-cowboy" bed-rolls and wool sleeping kits. I have found the following you may also be interested in watching.
Several thoughts about a kit - warm, resistance to weather, long wear, then weight, I am of course thinking about hunting and prepping instances, if you are forced to grab your GOOD bag a tough option that works under crap circumstances may be the ticket. (I don't think they will give you the choice of good weather under a forced bug out.)
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
The small quick cabin with Stromberg’s Starplate
The quick cabin - most likely the most economical shelter building kit available - with simple pipe or 2x4 or 2x6 lumber you can build a small cabin that will sleep about 6 people, close quarters but with insulation and a small inexpensive wood stove.
The system is quite easy to use and several cabins can be built for the cost of a single pre-built.
The Eco-Cabin blog
Lodge-Tech has even turned it into a geodesic/yurt kit.
Check out the wooded seclusion yurt.
Stromberg’s Starplate systems
The system is quite easy to use and several cabins can be built for the cost of a single pre-built.
The Eco-Cabin blog
Lodge-Tech has even turned it into a geodesic/yurt kit.
Check out the wooded seclusion yurt.
Stromberg’s Starplate systems
Monday, April 4, 2011
Personal Critical Review of Firearms - AK 47 (Kalashnikov rifle 1947)
Personal - I have only fired ONE true AK47 a registered class 3 example owned by a friend, I have owned many versions of the semi-automatic imports and domestic builds available currently. I have owned .308, .223, and several of the standard versions of this rifle in the 7.62x39 chambering. Recoil is mild in the .223 and 7.62x39 versions and manageable in the .308 versions. The standard version is short and easy to produce, for goodness sake this rifle can be made in even the worst third world hell-holes with an automotive hydraulic press, drill press, and a ball peen hammer... by oil lamp light! The rifle is currently artificially over-priced because of government regulation, and high demand. The AK type rifle is arguably the simplest auto-loading rifle to operate in existence. I do regret selling my .308 Mitchell Arms "grandfathered" import, I believe it was the single best made AK type rifle I have ever owned, with the Saiga rifles a distant second.
Function - Reliability is superb with this series of rifle it will eat the worst surplus corrosive ammunition like a teenage boy will devour ramen noodles. Dirty surplus ammunition will foul the gas system, and as I mentioned before, if not cleaned, corrosive ammunition will create rust along the gas piston tube and lock the rifle up. I have not found a single type of 7.62x39 ammo that would not feed flawlessly in any of the examples I have owned, I have not had a single operational failure with any of my formerly owned examples. Pull the trigger - Bang! EVERY TIME!
Design flaws - The simple gas system can be "locked in" with corrosion with no maintenance or cleaning (clean the gas tube!). Poor ergonomics and heavy. Marginally accurate.
I had a friend who had not cleaned his properly and had put it away, he came to my house to see if I could help, I looked into the gas tube vent hole and could see that typical "fuzzy rust". I asked him if he had a problem if I broke his bolt attempting to fix it... He looked at me strangely and said if it will get it to open, go ahead... I told him to hold onto the gun on the loading bench barrel up, I then took a scrap of 2x4 and a 6lbs sledge hammer and proceeded (much to his shock) to smack the charging handle with the hammer onto the wood block... IT DID NOT BREAK! and after the first tap and the second good smack it opened up!!! ...
I consider the rifle in standard configuration heavy and somewhat user unfriendly. The safety leaver is awkwardly placed, and the sights and accuracy are marginal. The Saiga with longer barrel in .308 or .223 and trigger work will preform with reasonable accuracy.
Quality - All over the map! Some makers better than others, the Saiga and Yugoslav versions the best of the lot. I think it is interesting that even the sloppy third tier versions from Century built on Romanian poor quality parts show that even Century can't screw up Kalashnikov's design!
Caliber/Ammunition - Available in .308 for an MBR, 7.62x39, .223 and 5.45x39 with all the positive and negative baggage each sized cartridge carries with it...
Use - Easy to find, hell, like the AR you cannot swing a dead cat and not hit an owner/shooter/dealer of the AK variants. Knowing that a full auto version can be had in places like Pakistan, Syria, and Turkey for less than 150 USD, the import restrictions and demand make this rifle a bit over priced. A wide selection of different versions are available, and attachments, spare parts, along with silly and useless crap pour in abundance from retailers and distributers like copious amounts of digested grass from the orifice of a large cow...
Current production ammunition is available from what seems like an endless parade of retailers, gun stores, and online merchants. (I note that with the current election results it is quickly drying up).
Current Production - Only swing a dead cat and the proximity to any troglodyte with a welding setup, press, and hand tools and you can have an AK...
Fondness aside, and I do have a fondness for the AK, I personally would consider this rifle a possible primary MBR or secondary choice depending on maker and caliber, the AK cannot be "dressed up" to be anything but ugly, and evil looking... in fact you could not find a better rifle to cause the typical weenie liberal bed-wetter to faint in horror or have any former bully/wimp Cop with a hard on for legal obfuscation for profit and social climbing to want to run you into the hoosegow...
Personal Critical Review of Firearms - SKS 45 (Soviet Simonov Self-loading Carbine 1945)
Personal - I have a fondness for russian weapons (possibly my Slovak background), I have owned many versions and copies of this carbine from Soviet to satellite to Sino. The standard version of this rifle fires the intermediate (mid level from rifle to pistol) power 7.62x39 round. I mention "standard versions" because I have heard rumors of gunsmiths converting the SKS to other "wild-cat" calibers - but I have never seen one in anything other than the 7.62x39. Recoil is mild to all but the smallest women and children, my two youngest children find the recoil disturbing. The shorter length makes the carbine quite handy and it will typically shows better accuracy than it's Soviet younger cousin the AK 47. The rifle is about as inexpensive and simple to operate as any self-loading rifle can be. I do regret selling my Russian examples, and I found the red chi-com fiberglass stocks a good match for the Chinese imports, reducing the weight. I most likely will never buy any additional examples as I have abandoned use of the 7.62x39 in favor of .308 (large family members) and .223 (small family members).
Function - Reliability is excellent with this rifle even with the worst surplus corrosive ammunition. Dirty surplus ammunition will foul the gas system and if not cleaned, corrosive ammunition will create rust along the gas piston tube and lock the rifle up. I have never reloaded for this rifle and never felt the need, there are reasonsble choises in loadings and bullets from surplus FMJ to soft point hunting rounds. After-market magazines have a bad reputation for unreliable feeding and stove-pipe failures, the non removable 20 round fixed chi-com magazine also had problems. The few SKS rifles built or converted to take AK magazines do not share the unreliable feeding problems with the after-market magazines. This rifle/carbine is best left in its original form.
Design flaws - The simple gas system can be "locked in" with corrosion if maintenance or cleaning is totally ignored. This corrosion lock in is not so much a flaw as a severe lack of maintenance issue. I had a friend that did this to both his AK and SKS at the same time from using Chinese corrosive ammo and not cleaning out the gas tubes. The SKS was made to be loaded with clips from the top of the action and the standard model only holds 10 rounds. Some early Russian rifles had a spring return firing pin that could help prevent slam fire issues. SKS models with a simple sliding floating firing pin have been noted to produce slam fire incidents. This dangerous condition is usually caused by a dirty or grease packed firing pin tunnel. The rifle in it's standard configuration is heavy for a carbine, but noted for rugged construction. The attached bayonet can lower the rifle’s accuracy and is added weight with little use, I recommend removing the bayonet.
SKS slam fire, causes and modification to spring return firing pin.
Quality - Most produced are of good to reasonable quality, some makers better than others, I consider the Russian imports (often KBI) to be the highest quality version with the Yugoslavian versions a second and the chinese a third.
Caliber/Ammunition - 7.62x39, in an SKS is moderate to reasonable in accuracy. Hundreds of hunters in the US find the SKS and 7.62x39 combination an effective pair for hunting deer, coyote, wild hogs and other game. This round is currently used in many countries as the main cartridge for infantry use.
Use - Easy to find, popular, and relatively inexpensive many different versions of the SKS are available, attachments, spare parts, and ammunition are available from what seems like an endless parade of retailers, gun stores, and online merchants.
Current Production - There is only limited current production of this rifle (if any) but surplus SKS carbines in even almost new condition are common.
Fondness aside, I personally would consider this rifle a secondary choice at best for a current MBR. It does share interchangeability of ammunition and stripper clips with the AK47 type rifle and is inexpensive. The benign look and impression the rifle gives (in original wood stock and without bayonet) makes it a good choice for a "trunk gun", hunting and hiking carry.
Can firearm alternatives be a realistic option for TEOTWAWKI?
I grew up in an archery shop my father owned and I worked there as a child, I can still fletch shafts like a pro because, well, I was one. Because of my hand skills and craftsmanship talent I can make, and have made presentation grade finished arrows...
The bow is at best a 100/200 yard weapon and most shooters who are not life long adherents to this martial art (and YES it is a martial art that requires skill and excessive training) will be 20 yard "pie plate" at best. Does it have it's place? I think so. I have, and much of my family has full sets of traditional equipment and I can tell you if SHTF the modern rifles go out for use first without even a second thought.
My opinion is that if you have never "plucked a string" (archery joke) you may want to consider spending that money on a .22 and lots of ammo, or a Mosin Nagant rifle with 7.62x54 dies primers, or possibly a flintlock, flints and powder.
I am in no way discouraging archery as a hobby, in fact archery and in particular "olympic style" archery with a recurve will improve your rifle and pistol shooting!
Just don't get stuck into the romanticism that you can become "super indian" or an english longbowman when TSHTF... Romanticism is as bad or worse with primitive weapons and martial arts than it is in the firearms industry! Remember also that this part of archery and it's romanticism sells lots of expensive equipment, but it will not change the reality.
So, you ask, why don't I talk about it as an option or alternative for SHTF?
8 inches at 20 yards - that is why, most shooters, without a release and a sighted compound with at least a full years worth of disciplined practice are going to get about "pie plate" accuracy in that year. I am talking about consistent average groups. Consistent groups, not your best-ever when the planets aligned on your star-sign, but average consistent groups.
I'm not about to get into the wannabe jedi "instinctive shooting" argument - because - like arguing religion it's supporter/proponents don't (or cannot) use reason and fact. I have tested the myths of "instinctive shooting" for years and my family (all of them "traditional archery" shooters, myself included) are big supporters of "Traditional Archery"and some are die hard proponents of "instinctive shooting" even when taking part in many of the repeatable tests, they have only changed the language, some people just cannot give up on romanticism.
Instinctive shooting as it is currently used is a misnomer, a direct fail, an attempt at spiritualism - there is no such thing, they are simply MISIDENTIFYING what is happening or what they are doing. When subjected to real testing all of the mythology will fail on it's "supernatural" claims every time.
8 inches at 20 yards - that is why, most shooters, without a release and a sighted compound with at least a full years worth of disciplined practice are going to get about "pie plate" accuracy in that year. I am talking about consistent average groups. Consistent groups, not your best-ever when the planets aligned on your star-sign, but average consistent groups.
I'm not about to get into the wannabe jedi "instinctive shooting" argument - because - like arguing religion it's supporter/proponents don't (or cannot) use reason and fact. I have tested the myths of "instinctive shooting" for years and my family (all of them "traditional archery" shooters, myself included) are big supporters of "Traditional Archery"and some are die hard proponents of "instinctive shooting" even when taking part in many of the repeatable tests, they have only changed the language, some people just cannot give up on romanticism.
Instinctive shooting as it is currently used is a misnomer, a direct fail, an attempt at spiritualism - there is no such thing, they are simply MISIDENTIFYING what is happening or what they are doing. When subjected to real testing all of the mythology will fail on it's "supernatural" claims every time.
Using a compound we are still talking about 5 inch or larger groups at 20 yards average - be honest, we expect smaller groups than that with iron sights at 100 yards with a rifle!
If you doubt the groups are that bad, go to an archery shop and watch! Even the best shooters are having a good day to have smaller groups than the general average. Don't think that I am discouraging or disrespecting the sport, I am not - I am simply being honest about this from the perspective of a supporter of the sport as a sport.
You will see a lot about how "good" someone is with a bow, but always temper that often self imposed fantasy with what the actual world records. How good are the real world champions? what can they do every meet? now compare that to a "once in a lifetime" lucky shot by the guy down the street. Is that normal? Can your rely on that luck? I have a few of my own lucky stories that I have observed but we must be honest - luck does happen. In the real world "luck" can even be explained mathematically, luck exists and it is an explainable anomaly.
If you doubt the groups are that bad, go to an archery shop and watch! Even the best shooters are having a good day to have smaller groups than the general average. Don't think that I am discouraging or disrespecting the sport, I am not - I am simply being honest about this from the perspective of a supporter of the sport as a sport.
You will see a lot about how "good" someone is with a bow, but always temper that often self imposed fantasy with what the actual world records. How good are the real world champions? what can they do every meet? now compare that to a "once in a lifetime" lucky shot by the guy down the street. Is that normal? Can your rely on that luck? I have a few of my own lucky stories that I have observed but we must be honest - luck does happen. In the real world "luck" can even be explained mathematically, luck exists and it is an explainable anomaly.
Typically 90% of all game kills with a bow are from less than 20 yards (they state 10 to 18 yards BTW) and groups of 6-8 inches will work on game.
Try an arrow at 100 yards and you will quickly see why even the flintlock took over the bow for the english archers, and later the American Native. The best sponsored professional shooters with the most modern compound bows, sights, releases, and intensive training can be outshot by even a average flintlock rifle shot at the same distances, advantage to the bow only in speed of a repeat shot, make that flintlock a lever action and the contest is over many native warriors and then even George Armstrong Custer would find out about the lever action.
Try an arrow at 100 yards and you will quickly see why even the flintlock took over the bow for the english archers, and later the American Native. The best sponsored professional shooters with the most modern compound bows, sights, releases, and intensive training can be outshot by even a average flintlock rifle shot at the same distances, advantage to the bow only in speed of a repeat shot, make that flintlock a lever action and the contest is over many native warriors and then even George Armstrong Custer would find out about the lever action.
The bow is at best a 100/200 yard weapon and most shooters who are not life long adherents to this martial art (and YES it is a martial art that requires skill and excessive training) will be 20 yard "pie plate" at best. Does it have it's place? I think so. I have, and much of my family has full sets of traditional equipment and I can tell you if SHTF the modern rifles go out for use first without even a second thought.
My opinion is that if you have never "plucked a string" (archery joke) you may want to consider spending that money on a .22 and lots of ammo, or a Mosin Nagant rifle with 7.62x54 dies primers, or possibly a flintlock, flints and powder.
I am in no way discouraging archery as a hobby, in fact archery and in particular "olympic style" archery with a recurve will improve your rifle and pistol shooting!
Just don't get stuck into the romanticism that you can become "super indian" or an english longbowman when TSHTF... Romanticism is as bad or worse with primitive weapons and martial arts than it is in the firearms industry! Remember also that this part of archery and it's romanticism sells lots of expensive equipment, but it will not change the reality.
Romanticism sells product, one reason it is promoted in advertising - and make no mistake EVERY magazine is ONE BIG ADVERTISEMENT.
Now reviewing the crossbow we are closing the gap a bit. For SHTF only with the non-compound versions should be considered and yet even with the best the edge is still on the side of powder burners (guns).
Bow and Crossbow are both quiet compared to a gun of any type (except the high powered airguns), I am just proposing realistic outlooks on all of this because, romanticism can get you killed.
Truth sometimes hurts our egos - tough, real men and women work with their limitations, know them, and find ways to circumvent and overcome them, a good fantasy is always nice, but it has to be tempered with harsh reality.
Please don't get me wrong, I love the shooting sports - if it shoots something, count me in, from rubber slingshots, to, the sling, bola, blowgun, atlatl/woomera, the bow, speargun, crossbow, and firearms of all types - I love it all, just a part of my personality.
While a heavy poundage bow could be deadly at 100 yards and possibly longer, only the best of the best could (and can) get reasonable accuracy at extended distances.
Now reviewing the crossbow we are closing the gap a bit. For SHTF only with the non-compound versions should be considered and yet even with the best the edge is still on the side of powder burners (guns).
Bow and Crossbow are both quiet compared to a gun of any type (except the high powered airguns), I am just proposing realistic outlooks on all of this because, romanticism can get you killed.
Truth sometimes hurts our egos - tough, real men and women work with their limitations, know them, and find ways to circumvent and overcome them, a good fantasy is always nice, but it has to be tempered with harsh reality.
Please don't get me wrong, I love the shooting sports - if it shoots something, count me in, from rubber slingshots, to, the sling, bola, blowgun, atlatl/woomera, the bow, speargun, crossbow, and firearms of all types - I love it all, just a part of my personality.
While a heavy poundage bow could be deadly at 100 yards and possibly longer, only the best of the best could (and can) get reasonable accuracy at extended distances.
Your choice should be dictated by your budget and your own talents. SHTF would be the worst time to take up archery and attempt to be proficient NOW would be the time.
I spent 3 to 5 days a week for over a year of disciplined shooting to get to state competition levels. With the best carbon arrows, and some of the most consistent factory produced olympic recurve equipment (FITA regulations) available including extension arm aperture sights, to this day, and in the best competition form I can have my ass handed to me by a decent compound shooter using telescopic sights (and YES they use and have telescopic sights). Take a compound shooters mechanical release away and we get closer. Primitive and traditional equipment cannot even touch that level of potential accuracy. Yes I include the trick shooters, put them at distance with a compound shooter and they will have their asses handed to them also, competing against a rifle at 100 yards there is no contest.
Does that mean archery is bad - hell no, it is just that other less expensive options could prove more realistic.
Check the time investment and then, the budget - available performance vs. your money.
Does that mean archery is bad - hell no, it is just that other less expensive options could prove more realistic.
Check the time investment and then, the budget - available performance vs. your money.
Lets look at some numbers.
Beginner Archery - expect $150-200+ for a bow, arrows $60+ per 12, Tab $8+, armguard/bracer $12+, Quiver $15+
Investment for Archery - $245 to 500 for a setup.
Beginner Crossbow - Barnett Panzer V Crossbow is often considered the "minimum" for a crossbow so price is easy $130+, bolts $25+ per 6 (12ea), there are packages with quiver and 6 bolts add bolts...
Investment for crossbow - $190+ for a setup.
Beginner rifle - Mosin Nagant Rifle 7.62x54R $92 (local shop) and 7.62x54R 880 rounds delivered $195
Investment for rifle - $287+ for a setup.
Beginner Archery - expect $150-200+ for a bow, arrows $60+ per 12, Tab $8+, armguard/bracer $12+, Quiver $15+
Investment for Archery - $245 to 500 for a setup.
Beginner Crossbow - Barnett Panzer V Crossbow is often considered the "minimum" for a crossbow so price is easy $130+, bolts $25+ per 6 (12ea), there are packages with quiver and 6 bolts add bolts...
Investment for crossbow - $190+ for a setup.
Beginner rifle - Mosin Nagant Rifle 7.62x54R $92 (local shop) and 7.62x54R 880 rounds delivered $195
Investment for rifle - $287+ for a setup.
Now the real question, what is the most effective for the money?
Alternatives are just that, alternatives or better secondary or specialized. For you readers in countries where you cannot own firearms, could a crossbow be the best option?
Viability of reloading primers?
Now remember the toy gun roll caps?
Forster still makes the Tap-O-Cap to make black powder caps from aluminum cans - you fill the cap with the toy roll caps!
They would be cheeper and more effective than the strike-all matches, used in this way. About 5 bucks for 1000 cap rolls. It makes the priming corrosive as I think the strike all matches are also.
A simple die and punch for reforming primers would be easy to make.
This information and idea is only for review and educational reasons, users are warned that anything is at your own risk, including standard reloading.
This is a potentially dangerous idea and if a user were to find a way to make fulminate of mercury, lead azide or lead styphnate - the compounds are very toxic (illegal to make without .gov approval papers) and very dangerous.
Some chemicals react to copper and brass or humidity and can self ignite or make compounds that will self ignite.
Best to stay on the safe side and keep your fingers.
Now some information about standard primers.
More and More water filtering info
Some construction tips and slow sand technology.
BACKWASHING a biological sand filter when the flow rate slows down. Forcefully backwashing a slow sand filter, particularly a small slow sand filter with layers of different sizes of sand, will destroy it. The flow rate is slowed by a buildup of material on the TOP FEW CENTIMETERS of sand. Simply gently agitating this layer and DRAINING OFF the cloudy water is all that needs to be done.
Now for the main site - David H. Manz the inventor.
More water info
That is the "old tech"
Now the BioSand filter.
Source water can not contain chlorine, soap or salt water as they will stop the bio-filtration process.
This PDF is a MUST READ!
It takes 5‐10 days for the biological layer to reach full maturity and effectiveness. During this time, the filter will become increasingly effective. Post filtering chlorination provides safe water during the period of time it takes for the biological
layer to form.
A PDF "manual" on water safety, and excellent read with lots of basic info.
A treasure of PDF files on how this type of filter is built and works.
Water, water, water
Our friends over at American Apocalypse posted about a drip water kit available from an on-line dealer, I was able to find out that you can order this from the manufacturer directly.
Ceramic Drip-Filter
"It is described as, "A ceramic, half-micron water filter. The micron removes water-borne bacterium. The inside of the filter is loaded with different media or ingredients, such as man-made carbons, mother nature carbons and man-made resins. Those different resins and carbons remove the different contaminants in the water."
See Filter Specifications
See Detailed Assembly Instructions
Ceramic Candle Water Filter
Personal Critical Review of Firearms - SMLE Lee-Enfield rifles
Short Magazine Lee-Enfield Rifle
I am going to talk only at a general level, I don't want to go into the SMLE variants there are too many.
Personal - Ugly, sorry but I think this rifle is about the ugliest bolt action rifle ever designed. I dislike the cock on closing bolt. I have owned or fired several of the many versions, I liked the Indian .308 version the best (Ishapore .308 rifles were cheep as dirt a few years ago) I also found it to be the most accurate of any I have shot. I dislike rimmed cartridges and unlike the 7.62r used in the Mosin-Nagant the .303 is a bit anemic for the size.
Function - it's a bolt action, as long as the ammo does not damage the gun, everything is in safe working order, and the feeding is unimpaired the user is all that is needed. Like the Mauser, 1903A3, and Mosin-Nagant they can be dependable and accurate if in good condition and well made.
Design flaws - Rear locking requires good metallurgy in the bolt, a poorly made bolt of inferior metals can be unsafe to fire.
Quality - depending on the maker quality is all over the map, many of the third world copies are poorly made and older service rifles can be damaged or poorly maintained.
Caliber/Ammunition - .303 is an obsolete rimmed round and surplus ammunition can be of questionable quality. The .303 is a serviceable cartridge for hunting and defense capable of good accuracy, because of its primitive design it can be used well with cast lead, paper patched bullets and black powder.
Use - again this is a bolt action, a trained monkey could operate this rifle, poorly made or maintained rifles can be nominal in accuracy and many in good working order are extremely accurate.
Current Production - This is an obsolete rifle, but the numbers of former production are huge, literally tons of rifles exist, there are two obscure small manufacturers that produce new models one makes a version that uses AK mags and fires the 7.62x39 round (they may have stopped production) and one company that makes a new .308 version.
I would consider this rifle a good possible trade item and a "throw down" for arming friendlies, not even a secondary choice for MBR, without a doubt I would consider the SVT40, M1, FN49 or even the SKS a better secondary choice.
Building a firearm collection for preparedness Part 2
More thoughts on a collection for preparedness and additions.
1. Caliber compatibility - the more weapons that share ammunition the easier it is to store and keep a handle on.
2. How is the caliber ranked for range and power? (suitability for large US game for hunting)
3. Is it suitable for reloading? (hand-loading used brass)
4. Is it readially available? (both weapons and ammunition)
5. What is the cost vs. value?
6. Are there auto-loading rifles and or magazines available in this caliber? (ten rounds and up)
7. Will there be sources of ammunition later and if not is this a concern?
8. Are reliable weapons with spare parts available (for spare/repair parts stocking)
9. Are they reasonably accurate? - 20 rounds 8 inches in less than two min. (That will kick out a bunch of rifles).
We are not talking about delusions of the mall ninjas - I for one will be bugging in place if the need arises. We want to think about how many uses this can be matched to and if they fit the needs of your area.
I hand-load/reload so even current availability issues are almost always limited to concerns pertaining to the availability of components rather than new or surplus ammunition.
I have posted before, pistols just don't hold the same interest for me as rifles, I have them, I think they are necessary, but I don't put much stock in them past that possible "oh, crap" situation - like an attempted car-jacking or similar problem, and as I said it would be a last resort only if the fear of harm is imminent and then "no sword is sheathed without drawing blood" concept applies - the proper tool at the proper time, only when needed.
I also was looking over the load books to confirm and here is the general run down I found (changes from book to book, but they generally follow this trend).
7.62x54R Ballistic performance
Bullet weight/type 150 gr
Velocity 3,000 ft/s
Energy 2,905 ft·lbf
The two highest are 7.62x54R and 7.92x57 then 30-06 and then 7.62x51 - if you look at commercial .308 rather than 7.62x51 then you find that it comes within and in some cases surpass 30-06. (again this could be problematic or dangerous for weaker actions such as the M1a or older rifles like the Spanish 7.62x51 conversion Mausers)
1. Caliber compatibility - the more weapons that share ammunition the easier it is to store and keep a handle on.
2. How is the caliber ranked for range and power? (suitability for large US game for hunting)
3. Is it suitable for reloading? (hand-loading used brass)
4. Is it readially available? (both weapons and ammunition)
5. What is the cost vs. value?
6. Are there auto-loading rifles and or magazines available in this caliber? (ten rounds and up)
7. Will there be sources of ammunition later and if not is this a concern?
8. Are reliable weapons with spare parts available (for spare/repair parts stocking)
9. Are they reasonably accurate? - 20 rounds 8 inches in less than two min. (That will kick out a bunch of rifles).
We are not talking about delusions of the mall ninjas - I for one will be bugging in place if the need arises. We want to think about how many uses this can be matched to and if they fit the needs of your area.
I hand-load/reload so even current availability issues are almost always limited to concerns pertaining to the availability of components rather than new or surplus ammunition.
I have posted before, pistols just don't hold the same interest for me as rifles, I have them, I think they are necessary, but I don't put much stock in them past that possible "oh, crap" situation - like an attempted car-jacking or similar problem, and as I said it would be a last resort only if the fear of harm is imminent and then "no sword is sheathed without drawing blood" concept applies - the proper tool at the proper time, only when needed.
I also was looking over the load books to confirm and here is the general run down I found (changes from book to book, but they generally follow this trend).
7.62x54R Ballistic performance
Bullet weight/type 150 gr
Velocity 3,000 ft/s
Energy 2,905 ft·lbf
The 7.92x57mm IS (8mm Mauser) Ballistic performance
Bullet weight/type (.323 inch) 181 gr
Velocity 2,700 ft/s
Energy 2,902 ft·lbf
30-06 Ballistic performance
Bullet weight/type 150 gr
Velocity 2,900 ft/s
Energy 2,820 ft·lbf
Bullet weight/type (.323 inch) 181 gr
Velocity 2,700 ft/s
Energy 2,902 ft·lbf
30-06 Ballistic performance
Bullet weight/type 150 gr
Velocity 2,900 ft/s
Energy 2,820 ft·lbf
30-06 Ballistic performance (M2 ball cartridge)
Bullet weight/type 152 gr
Velocity 2,740 ft/s
Energy 2,650 ft·lbf
Bullet weight/type 152 gr
Velocity 2,740 ft/s
Energy 2,650 ft·lbf
7.62x51 (.308) Ballistic performance
Bullet weight/type146.6 gr
Velocity 2,756 ft/s
Energy 2,472 ft·lbf
Bullet weight/type146.6 gr
Velocity 2,756 ft/s
Energy 2,472 ft·lbf
Note this information is for "time era" factory or surplus loadings, modern loads designed for modern powders in new manufacture bolt action rifles can "UP" the power of the 30-06 but this would be damaging or dangerous in the M1, M1917, or 03A3.
The two highest are 7.62x54R and 7.92x57 then 30-06 and then 7.62x51 - if you look at commercial .308 rather than 7.62x51 then you find that it comes within and in some cases surpass 30-06. (again this could be problematic or dangerous for weaker actions such as the M1a or older rifles like the Spanish 7.62x51 conversion Mausers)
The common thought out there is that 30-06 is the most potent, but the numbers prove that the Russian round is the hottest. Also contrary to popular misinformation .308 commercial rounds have a higher pressure and loading parameters than the NATO rounds and so would chart higher.
Using the basic thoughts and my already chosen calibers I was thinking about getting one of the new Remington .223 pump action rifles that takes an AR magazine and a .308 bolt action rifle from Savage. I would order both with iron sights, this would be the logical thing, but there is the CZ52 and the PPSH41 semi-auto I have been eyeballing (to satisfy my curiosity). Logic may prevail and I may get a second SU16CA as it is cheeper than the Remington, and I may get one or two of the Spanish Mausers in .308.
As to shotguns - I had forgotten to list them, you need one. I don't have one for myself but, my wife has an 870 riot gun for home protection (yes it is hers, she made me buy one for her) and my oldest son has an 870 pump fitted with a slug barrel that has interchangeable choke tubes, both are 12 ga. and are in almost unused condition, simply because we don't use them.
And a high power pellet rifle - I was never a good shot on the wing with a shotgun, but if it lights and I have a post and notch on it, it's in the bag. I note the preponderance of pidgins in our area and in a pinch you would have a hard time telling the meat from a dove.
Using the basic thoughts and my already chosen calibers I was thinking about getting one of the new Remington .223 pump action rifles that takes an AR magazine and a .308 bolt action rifle from Savage. I would order both with iron sights, this would be the logical thing, but there is the CZ52 and the PPSH41 semi-auto I have been eyeballing (to satisfy my curiosity). Logic may prevail and I may get a second SU16CA as it is cheeper than the Remington, and I may get one or two of the Spanish Mausers in .308.
As to shotguns - I had forgotten to list them, you need one. I don't have one for myself but, my wife has an 870 riot gun for home protection (yes it is hers, she made me buy one for her) and my oldest son has an 870 pump fitted with a slug barrel that has interchangeable choke tubes, both are 12 ga. and are in almost unused condition, simply because we don't use them.
And a high power pellet rifle - I was never a good shot on the wing with a shotgun, but if it lights and I have a post and notch on it, it's in the bag. I note the preponderance of pidgins in our area and in a pinch you would have a hard time telling the meat from a dove.
Building a firearm collection for preparedness
I don't think I need to convince many of you of the possible urgent need to build a collection for preparedness, my view is that we are about to see something of a magnitude not seen in several generations.
With that in mind I wanted to review a few ideas, until now I have shared with others only in private.
What would I do now?
A good question I would want to look at it several ways, I live in a western state that does not have the restrictions of other un-constitutionally infested areas suffer from so I may be free to gather some items not allowed in some states or countries where you may be reading this...
I should start out by saying that I find rifles far more utilitarian than a pistol, but I would suggest a pistol you find comfortable. I do not think you have to have a .40 (something) to be a man - in fact a pistol is a piss poor tool for fighting your way back to the rifle you stupidly left out of reach (my grandfather taught me that).
Pistols first
That said there are reasons to have a pistol and to even apply for your stolen freedoms with a "permit", often just the extraction of your sidearm from its concealed holster will cause a "thug" to back down, but if ever threatened enough to think I ever needed to "pull" there would be no time to back down because that time would have already passed.
I favor the .357 revolver, and contrary to internet commandos, it is a very effective cartridge. The study of police fatal shootings shows the .357 to be far more lethal than most of the other rounds combined. I would gather that if you think the .357 is not "powerful" then you simply need to shoot a .357 with a 158 gr. HP full power load to see for yourself. I have hunted with a .357 in the past and it is a very effective round for hunting even large game. A very accurate round, if you put a scope on a .357 revolver NO ONE will laugh at you, contrary to the snickers you may get with a scope on an AK - there is a reason for that...
I am a fan of the 7.62x25mm Tokarev a hot version of the 7.63x25mm Mauser, very hot and very accurate
I like the 9x18mm Makarov, a small pistol that fires inexpensive ammunition, my wife favors her 9x18mm Makarov above all others.
I standardized on the 9x19mm Parabellum for the simple reason that it is a standard all over the world, ammo is available and inexpensive - not because it is better but because good pistols are easy to find and in the end any pistol is better than nothing. Future supply was the deciding factor.
Oh, and before you start busting my chops, I cut my teeth on .45 1911 pistols because that is what my dad loved, I gave up on the .45 the first time I shot my first .357 and never seriously looked back, and none of my .357 revolvers ever jammed on me - I could never say that about the 1911.
Regardless of what you choose, pick one, practice, stock up on ammo - I keep 500 rounds of factory loaded ammo (or more) for each pistol and components for lots more "home rolled".
You also need a .22 lr pistol - pick one and use it, cheep shooting, I suggest getting a revolver or auto loader to match your main pistol, they even make some conversion kits that are nice to have.
Rifles (damn, I love rifles)
First on the list get a .22 lr rifle in bolt or auto-loader, and continue to shoot it until you get past 2000 rounds before you even think about putting it to the side, take one every time you visit the range.
How would I do it?
I don't like the .223 and certainly don't like the AR platform, but I do (now) have one .223 that survived the recent sell off (I made a bit of coin off this panic and I am still selling and giving away) and it belongs to one of the small children. It is an SU16CA from Kel-tec, embarrassing for Rugar that Kel-tec can make a better rifle for less that uses standard magazines, and is more reliable than the jammin' jenny and more accurate than the POS mini-14 junker.
I did chose to make .308 my standard rifle caliber, but if I were to do this from scratch now I would choose the 7.62x54r...
Why? budget, effectiveness.
I would get an auto-loading mag fed rifle and several turn bolt Mosin Nagant 91/30, 91/59 or M44 rifles (and they are drying up in supply fast).
For the autoloader I would most likely get the Romanian PSL junker with a scope for less than 800 bucks, then sell the scope and replace it with a little 2 or 4 power fixed scope. In fact thinking about this issue with a compatriot I seriously considered selling off my .308 rifle for the cash and getting an Romanian PSL and a SVT40 with a hand full of Mosin Nagant 91/30 rifles for throw-downs.
If the Yugoslavian M76 in 8mm Mauser was less expensive the same thing could be done with 8mm and some M24/47 Yugoslavian Mauser turn bolts, but the autoloader and the ammo is a bit high.
With that in mind I wanted to review a few ideas, until now I have shared with others only in private.
What would I do now?
A good question I would want to look at it several ways, I live in a western state that does not have the restrictions of other un-constitutionally infested areas suffer from so I may be free to gather some items not allowed in some states or countries where you may be reading this...
I should start out by saying that I find rifles far more utilitarian than a pistol, but I would suggest a pistol you find comfortable. I do not think you have to have a .40 (something) to be a man - in fact a pistol is a piss poor tool for fighting your way back to the rifle you stupidly left out of reach (my grandfather taught me that).
Pistols first
That said there are reasons to have a pistol and to even apply for your stolen freedoms with a "permit", often just the extraction of your sidearm from its concealed holster will cause a "thug" to back down, but if ever threatened enough to think I ever needed to "pull" there would be no time to back down because that time would have already passed.
I favor the .357 revolver, and contrary to internet commandos, it is a very effective cartridge. The study of police fatal shootings shows the .357 to be far more lethal than most of the other rounds combined. I would gather that if you think the .357 is not "powerful" then you simply need to shoot a .357 with a 158 gr. HP full power load to see for yourself. I have hunted with a .357 in the past and it is a very effective round for hunting even large game. A very accurate round, if you put a scope on a .357 revolver NO ONE will laugh at you, contrary to the snickers you may get with a scope on an AK - there is a reason for that...
I am a fan of the 7.62x25mm Tokarev a hot version of the 7.63x25mm Mauser, very hot and very accurate
I like the 9x18mm Makarov, a small pistol that fires inexpensive ammunition, my wife favors her 9x18mm Makarov above all others.
I standardized on the 9x19mm Parabellum for the simple reason that it is a standard all over the world, ammo is available and inexpensive - not because it is better but because good pistols are easy to find and in the end any pistol is better than nothing. Future supply was the deciding factor.
Oh, and before you start busting my chops, I cut my teeth on .45 1911 pistols because that is what my dad loved, I gave up on the .45 the first time I shot my first .357 and never seriously looked back, and none of my .357 revolvers ever jammed on me - I could never say that about the 1911.
Regardless of what you choose, pick one, practice, stock up on ammo - I keep 500 rounds of factory loaded ammo (or more) for each pistol and components for lots more "home rolled".
You also need a .22 lr pistol - pick one and use it, cheep shooting, I suggest getting a revolver or auto loader to match your main pistol, they even make some conversion kits that are nice to have.
Rifles (damn, I love rifles)
First on the list get a .22 lr rifle in bolt or auto-loader, and continue to shoot it until you get past 2000 rounds before you even think about putting it to the side, take one every time you visit the range.
How would I do it?
I don't like the .223 and certainly don't like the AR platform, but I do (now) have one .223 that survived the recent sell off (I made a bit of coin off this panic and I am still selling and giving away) and it belongs to one of the small children. It is an SU16CA from Kel-tec, embarrassing for Rugar that Kel-tec can make a better rifle for less that uses standard magazines, and is more reliable than the jammin' jenny and more accurate than the POS mini-14 junker.
I did chose to make .308 my standard rifle caliber, but if I were to do this from scratch now I would choose the 7.62x54r...
Why? budget, effectiveness.
I would get an auto-loading mag fed rifle and several turn bolt Mosin Nagant 91/30, 91/59 or M44 rifles (and they are drying up in supply fast).
For the autoloader I would most likely get the Romanian PSL junker with a scope for less than 800 bucks, then sell the scope and replace it with a little 2 or 4 power fixed scope. In fact thinking about this issue with a compatriot I seriously considered selling off my .308 rifle for the cash and getting an Romanian PSL and a SVT40 with a hand full of Mosin Nagant 91/30 rifles for throw-downs.
If the Yugoslavian M76 in 8mm Mauser was less expensive the same thing could be done with 8mm and some M24/47 Yugoslavian Mauser turn bolts, but the autoloader and the ammo is a bit high.
Regardless, keep at least 1000 rounds for each rifle of factory loaded ammo and ONLY shoot reloads you have made for that rifle, keep the factory ammunition for when the need arises.
The reason for the turn bolt in the mix is for several reasons, one is for reloading, if in the worst case you had to shoot black powder and lead bullets you can load black powder, lead bullets (even paper patched/paper jacketed) and even press out primers knock out the firing pin dent and fill them with two or three toy cap gun caps and have a turn bolt rifle that functions. Damn, I hope it never gets down to black powder!
Just some random thoughts about the current situation, trying to look at this without a sense of panic but rather logic. I am afraid that this will be the last reasonable and possible chance before the hammer falls, in just a few weeks the first panic will subside (as it is now) and the second one will hit mid January. I write this knowing I have what I think I need, but I would have liked to keep my habit of trying out new rifles...
The reason for the turn bolt in the mix is for several reasons, one is for reloading, if in the worst case you had to shoot black powder and lead bullets you can load black powder, lead bullets (even paper patched/paper jacketed) and even press out primers knock out the firing pin dent and fill them with two or three toy cap gun caps and have a turn bolt rifle that functions. Damn, I hope it never gets down to black powder!
Just some random thoughts about the current situation, trying to look at this without a sense of panic but rather logic. I am afraid that this will be the last reasonable and possible chance before the hammer falls, in just a few weeks the first panic will subside (as it is now) and the second one will hit mid January. I write this knowing I have what I think I need, but I would have liked to keep my habit of trying out new rifles...
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